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Maison Margiela, formerly Maison Martin Margiela, is a French luxury fashion house founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens in 1988 and headquartered in Paris.[1] The house produces both haute couture-inspired artisanal collections and ready-to-wear collections, with the former influencing the designs of the latter.[2] Product lines include womenswear, menswear, jewellery, footwear, accessories, leather goods, perfumes[1] and household goods.[3] Known for deconstructive and avant-garde designs with unconventional materials,[1] Maison Margiela has traditionally held live shows in unusual settings, for example empty metro stations[4] and street corners.[5] Models' faces are often obscured[6] by fabric or long hair to direct attention to the clothes and design.[7] Margiela resigned as creative designer in 2009.[8] John Galliano was appointed to the role in 2014,[9] and resigned in 2024. [10] His successor is Glenn Martens.[11] メゾン・マルジェラ（旧名：メゾン・マルタン・マルジェラ）は、フランスの高級ファッションブランド。1988年にベルギー人デザイナーのマルタン・マルジェラとジェニー・メーレンスによって設立された。本社はパリ[1]。 オートクチュールに着想を得たアーティザナル・コレクションと既製服のコレクションの両方を発表しており、前者は後者のデザインに影響を与えている[2]。レディースウェアからメンズウェア、ジュエリー、靴、アクセサリー、革製品、香水[1]、家庭用品[3]まで展開する。 型破りな素材を使った脱構築的でアバンギャルドなデザインで知られ[1]、伝統的にライブショーを誰もいない地下鉄の駅[4]や街角[5]などの一風変わった場所で開催してきた。モデルの顔はしばしば不明瞭であり、布や長い髪で隠される[6]。これは服やデザインに注意を向けるためである[7]。 マルタン・マルジェラは2009年にクリエイティブ・デザイナーを辞任[8]。ジョン・ガリアーノが2014年に就任し[9]、2024年に辞任[10]。後任はグレン・マーテンス[11]。 歴史設立と初期Maison Margiela was founded by Martin Margiela, a Belgian fashion designer, in 1988. Earlier, Margiela had studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Antwerp,[5] and although he actually graduated a year earlier, in 1979,[3] he is often mistaken for a member of the university's Avant-garde fashion collective the Antwerp Six.[12][7] Among other influences, during the 1980s Margiela and other Belgian designers such as the Antwerp Six were inspired by deconstructive fashions introduced by Japanese avantgardists such as Rei Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons.[13] Margiela began utilizing the deconstructive style in the 1980s[14] while a freelance designer in Milan, Italy,[15] and early on his work would often reveal the garments’ structure, for example intentionally exposed linings and seams.[5] In 1984 he became Jean Paul Gaultier’s design assistant in Paris, a role he held until 1987.[1] メゾン・マルジェラは、ベルギー出身のファッションデザイナー、マルタン・マルジェラによって1988年に設立された。設立以前、マルジェラはアントワープ王立芸術アカデミーでファッションを学んでおり[5]、メゾン・マルジェラ設立の前年である1979年に卒業している[3]。マルジェラは、同大学のアバンギャルドなファッション集団である「アントワープ・シックス」のメンバーと間違われることも多い[7][12]。とりわけ、1980年代を通してマルジェラや、アントワープ・シックスなどのベルギーのデザイナーたちは、コム・デ・ギャルソンのクリエイターの川久保玲のような日本のアヴァンギャルドなデザイナーたちによって導入された脱構築的なファッションに影響を受けた[13]。マルジェラはイタリアのミラノでフリーランスのデザイナーとして活動していた[15]、1980年代から脱構築的なスタイルを取り入れ始め[14]、初期には意図的に裏地や縫い目を露出させるなど、衣服の構造を明らかにすることが多かった[5]。1984年にはパリでジャン・ポール・ゴルチエのデザイン・アシスタントに就任し、1987年までその役割を務めた[1]。 In 1988, Martin launched his own self-titled design label Maison Martin Margiela[1] with business partner and fellow designer Jenny Meirens.[5][15] Initially working out of a Paris apartment,[2] they opened their first store in an unmarked white space in Paris,[16] also opening a small studio on 12 Leopoldstraat in Antwerp.[15] New York Magazine wrote that "the designer quickly defined a deconstructed look [with his new label]… Vaguely Dadaist, as if Marcel Duchamp were reincarnated as a fashion designer, Margiela questioned every tenet of fashion and luxury."[16] Vogue would later write that his early ideas "provoked shock and intrigue" in the fashion industry.[1] On the label's garments, simple blank white labels with four white tacks[1] were sewn to signify the brand.[16] Distinct product ranges were given numbers as signifiers, in no particular chronological order.[1] 1988年、マルタン・マルジェラは、ビジネスパートナーでありデザイナー仲間のジェニー・メレンスとともに、自身の名を冠したデザインレーベル「メゾン・マルタン・マルジェラ」[1]を立ち上げた[5][15]。当初はパリのアパートで活動していたが[2]、パリの看板のない白い空間で最初の店舗をオープンし[16]、アントワープのレオポルド通り12番地にも小さなアトリエを構えた[15]。『ニューヨーク・マガジン』は、「（マルジェラは）その新しいブランドで、すぐに“脱構築的なルック”を定義した。どこかダダイスム的で、まるでマルセル・デュシャンがファッションデザイナーとして転生したかのように、マルジェラはファッションとラグジュアリーのあらゆる前提に疑問を投げかけた」と評価した[16]。のちに『ヴォーグ』誌は、彼の初期のアイデアが「（ファッション業界に）衝撃と興味を引き起こした」と記している[1]。ブランドの服には、シンプルな白い無地のラベルが4本の白い糸で縫い付けられており、それがブランドを示すしるしとなっていた[1][16]。異なる製品ラインには、それぞれ番号が記号として与えられ、特に年代順などの秩序はなかった[1]。 初期のショーと匿名性 With New York Magazine describing the label's early shows as "perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for,"[16] in 1988, Maison Martin Margiela presented its debut womenswear collection[1] at Paris Fashion Week.[16] for the spring of 1989.[17] Refusing to take bows at his live shows,[6] Margiela began avoiding pictures[16] and began handling all media via fax,[18][5] with interviews taken collectively by the entire design team[18][16] and correspondence signed with "we."[14] Many in the fashion media contended that the anonymity was a publicity stunt, although Maison Martin Margiela asserted that Margiela's anonymity was a reaction to an overly commercialized fashion industry[14] and a genuine attempt to return the focus of fashion to the clothing, and not the personas behind it.[18] The press dubbed Margiela the Greta Garbo of fashion as a result, a reference to Garbo's similar avoidance of the spotlight,[12][8] and in 2008 the New York Times called Margiela "fashion's invisible man."[19] 1988年、メゾン・マルタン・マルジェラはパリ・ファッションウィークでデビューとなるウィメンズウェア・コレクションを発表した[1]。『ニューヨーク・マガジン』はこのブランドの初期のショーを 「1980年代のパリ・ファッションが知られるようなテーマ性のあるオペラ的演出というよりは、むしろアート・ハプニングのようだった」と評した[16]。 1989年春コレクションに向けて、マルジェラはライブショーでランウェイに出て挨拶することを拒み、写真に写ることも避け始めた[17][6][16]。そしてすべてのメディア対応をFAXで行うようになり、インタビューもデザインチーム全体で受け、やり取りには「私たち（we）」という署名を用いた[18][16][14]。ファッションメディアの多くはこの匿名性を話題づくりのパフォーマンスだと見なしたが、メゾン・マルタン・マルジェラ側はそれを「商業主義に偏りすぎたファッション業界への反発」[14]であり、「ファッションの焦点を人物ではなく、服そのものに取り戻すための本気の試み」[18]だと主張した。グレタ・ガルボがスポットライトを避けたことに由来して、マルジェラはマスメディアで「ファッション界のグレタ・ガルボ」と呼ばれるようになった[8][12]。また、2008年には『ニューヨーク・タイムズ』が彼を「ファッション界の透明人間」と表現している[19]。 OTBによる買収 In 1994 the New York Times commented on the company's influence by writing that its "made-over flea-market clothes put an end to the conspicuous consumption [of the fashion industry] of the 1980s." That year Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first period pieces.[20] In 1998, Maison Martin Margiela debuted a menswear collection, known as line 10.[1] Maison Martin Margiela oversaw creative direction of womenswear for the French design house Hermès from 1997[1] until 2003,[1] with the design team[5] working under Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas.[1] 1994年、『ニューヨーク・タイムズ』はマルジェラの影響力について「彼らの“リメイクされた蚤の市の服”は、1980年代の（ファッション業界における） 顕示的消費（en: conspicuous consumption）に終止符を打った」と述べた。その年、メゾン・マルタン・マルジェラは初の「時代もの（period pieces）」を発表した[20]。1998年には「ライン10」として知られるメンズウェア・コレクションを初めて発表した[1]。 マルタン・マルジェラは1997年から2003年まで[1]、フランスのファッションブランド・エルメスにおいてウィメンズウェアのクリエイティブ・ディレクションをデザインチームと担当し[5]、チームはエルメス会長ジャン＝ルイ・デュマのもとで活動した[1]。 In 2002, Maison Martin Margiela was acquired by the OTB Group,a holding company led by Renzo Rosso, also owner of the Italian fashion label Diesel.[1][20] In December 2004, Maison Martin Margiela moved into a new headquarters in an eighteenth-century convent in Paris' 11th arrondissement. The interior of the headquarters and furniture were painted entirely white with emulsion, creating an aged look. In addition to the white surroundings, employees all wear "blouse blanche", white coats traditionally worn by couture craftsmen. The white coats are both a nod to history and aesthetics, as well as an equalizer, as all employees wear them, regardless of title.[14] Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first haute couture collection in 2006.[1] By the summer of 2008 there were 14 Margiela boutiques.[5] 2002年、メゾン・マルタン・マルジェラは、イタリアのファッションブランド「ディーゼル」のオーナーでもあるレンツォ・ロッソが率いる持株会社「OTBグループ」に買収された[1][20]。2004年12月、メゾン・マルタン・マルジェラは、パリ11区にある18世紀の修道院を改装した新本社に移転した。内装や家具はすべてエマルジョン塗料で白く塗られ、経年変化を思わせる風合いが演出された。 この白い空間に加え、従業員は全員「ブラウス・ブランシュ（blouse blanche）」と呼ばれる白衣を着用している。これはオートクチュール職人の伝統的な作業着であり、歴史的・美学的な意味を持つと同時に、職位に関係なく全員が着用することで**フラットな関係性を示す「平等の象徴」**でもある。 2006年には初のオートクチュール・コレクションを発表。 2008年夏の時点で、マルジェラのブティックは世界に14店舗まで拡大していた。 Anonymous design team, 2009–2014In October 2009, it was announced that Martin Margiela had resigned as creative director of Maison Martin Margiela, to varied speculation about the reasons.[1][19] Following Margiela's departure, the anonymous design team continued to design the label, with no single creative director in place.[1] It later became public that future Balenciaga designer Demna was appointed to the womenswear design team shortly after Margiela's departure, but worked anonymously at the time.[21] CEO Giovanni Pungetti stated that "we want to stay avant-garde, and provocative, but without a new creative director. It’s a challenge. We know this. We will probably make mistakes, but the most important thing is to learn from them." The company expanded its homewares and interior design business in 2010,[8] and in July 2011 the house designed several concept hotel suites for La Maison Champs-Élysées in Paris.[1] Maison Margiela debuted a capsule collection for H&M in 2012, consisting largely of reissued pieces from the Margiela archives.[22] By the fall of 2014, sources estimated that the brand generated about $126 million in annual revenues, with around 50 directly owned stores. John Galliano, 2014–2024In October 2014 it was announced that John Galliano would take the position of creative director,[9] after having previously served in that position at Givenchy, Dior, and his eponymous line, John Galliano.[23] As reported by the Guardian, Margiela's only directions to the new director were "make it your own."[24] Giving rare interviews in the interim,[25] Galliano presented his debut collection for Maison Margiela in January 2015, to broadly positive reviews.[23] Coinciding with Galliano's debut collection, it was revealed that the house had dropped "Martin" from its name, in favor of "Maison Margiela." A spokesperson for Maison Margiela said that the name change "represented an evolution of the house."[26] With Galliano focusing on the haute couture element of the company, by the end of 2015 revenues were up 30%.[24] In 2017, Maison Margiela collaborated with outerwear maker Mackintosh to create two exclusive trenchcoat designs for its spring 2018 men’s wear collection, including a white version.[27] Glenn Martens, 2025.Glenn Martens is the new creative director of Maison Margiela. He was appointed in January 2025 taking over John Galliano after his 10 year run.[28] Martens, 41, has been creative director at another OTB-owned fashion house, Diesel, since 2000.[29] Martens is the third creative director at Maison Margiela. Before Glenn Martens started working with Diesel, Martens was working as first assistant to Y/Project creative director and founder Yohan Serfaty. After Serfaty passed away in April 2013, his business partner Gilles Elalouf convinced Martens to take the helm of the label.[30] Glenn Martens would be one of the rare creative designer running two iconic fashion houses at once.
Stores Prior to the brand's acquisition by OTB Group in 2002, its stores were not listed in the phone directory, and Margiela's name did not appear outside the shops.[19] By the summer of 2008 there were 14 Margiela boutiques operating internationally, with expansion in Dubai, Hong Kong, Moscow and Munich taking place over the subsequent six months.[5] In late 2009 the brand opened a "pop-up store" at the Art Basel Miami Beach art fair.[20] The number of standalone stores had grown to 17 by 2010, with 21 "shop-in-shops" internationally.[8] As of 2017, Maison Margiela has stores in countries such as France, the United Kingdom, Belgium, China, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, the United States, and Thailand. On February 2025, the first concession store for Mexico was opened inside Palacio de Hierro department store in Mexico City.[31] Other activitiesMaison Margiela assigns each of its product ranges a number from 0 to 23 as a reference code, with no particular chronological order. Examples include fine jewelry (12), footwear (22), eyewear (8), objects (13) and fragrance (3).[1] The house produces both artisanal collections and ready-to-wear collections, with the former inspiring the designs of the latter.[2] With formal allegiance to no particular fashion movement,[18] Maison Margiela's designs are famous for deconstructionist traits[12] such as exposed seams, being oversized and upcycling garments.[32] Other deconstructionist tactics Maison Margiela has utilized include using traditional fabric linings as the outer layers of garments,[17] and the label's 1988 debut womenswear collection[1] included what The Independent described as "a leather butcher's apron reworked into a seductive evening gown," and an old tulle dress worked into several tailored jackets.[17] Other work with unconventional materials has included clothes fashioned of plastic carrier bags and wire coat hangers,[6] trouser suits made from 1970s upholstery fabrics, tops made with leather gloves, and jewelry made of colored ice such that clothes are dyed as the jewelry melts.[1]  In 1994 Maison Margiela debuted its first period pieces, with a line of "complete reproductions," after building its previous collection entirely from its archives.[20] Maison Margiela debuted a menswear collection in 1998, known as line 10.[1] Martin Margiela was creative director for womenswear of the French design house Hermès from 1997[1] until 2003,[1] with the Maison Martin Margiela team's[5] designs for Hermès unveiled twice a year in Hermes’ rue St-Honoré store.[5] The Independent called the collections "understated," with both "loose-fitting masculine tailoring" and "black crêpe evening dresses," among other items.[5] New York MAgazine in turn described the designs as "quiet explorations of luxury that focused on classic clothes with subtle but masterful twists."[16] Diffusion lineLaunching in 1997, MM6 is a diffusion line for the label.[33] MM6 is aimed at the contemporary fashion market as opposed to the avant garde high fashion positioning of mainline Maison Margiela. As of 2023, MM6 is still showing runway collections during Milan Fashion Week.[34] FootwearFirst shown in 1989[35] and introduced in 1992,[19] one of the company's more recognized pieces[13] is the Tabi boot, an interpretation of the traditional split Japanese tabi sock which separates the large toe.[35] The company collaborated with Converse on shoe designs in 2013.[36] AccessoriesIn November 2008, Maison Margiela launched a small jewelry and eyewear collection including its first pair of sunglasses, described as "an impenetrable black band that wraps right around the face."[5] The brand has also worked with the watch brand G-Shock[37] and collaborated with Swarovski on ready-to-wear jewelry in 2013.[38] FragrancesMaison Margiela's first fragrance was created in collaboration with L’Oreal, debuting in 2009.[5] In 2018, the house's Mutiny fragrance was launched; Nose Dominique Ropion took six years to come up with a fragrance that reflects Galliano's vision of the Maison Margiela women. Willow Smith, Teddy Quinlivan, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Sasha Lane, Princess Nokia and Molly Bair were chosen as “Mutinist” ambassadors, representing the diversity and individuality of the fragrance.[39] In 2024, Maison Margiela extended its Replica fragrance collection with vegetable garden notes.[40] Live showsMaison Margiela is known for showcasing collections in atypical settings and manners,[5] with The New York Times describing the shows as "alternately electrifying or humorous or sexy or just plain weird."[19] According to New York Magazine, early shows were "perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for," as well as "radically personal and humanistic expressions about clothes [at a time] when fashion otherwise seemed estranged from everyday realities."[16] Maison Margiela's runway shows are notable in that the models' faces are often obscured by hoods,[6] fabric or long hair, in an attempt to direct attention to the clothes and away from the models themselves.[7] In 1989 Maison Margiela staged a collection on a playground in the outskirts of Paris. With local children interacting with the models in an unrehearsed way[16] and a first-come, first-served seating arrangement, according to Business of Fashion, "the critics loathed it. The industry loved it."[35] Continuing to stage catwalks in unusual places, in spring 1992 a show in an abandoned Paris metro station featured models walking down staircases lined with candles,[4] and according to The Independent, other settings have included round dining tables arranged in neglected warehouses, stairwells of old town houses, and disused subway cars.[5] Although the house has a reputation for avoiding booking celebrity models,[6] for spring of 1993 models such as Cecilia Chancellor and Kate Moss showcased "minimalism paired with Victoriana."[12] 1993 also saw a show with models weaving among a brass band on the runway,[16] and in 1994 the label staged a collection based on what Barbie’s wardrobe would look like full size.[19] Models sat amongst the audience in 1995,[12] and on another occasion, in 1997 the company used a map to invite the fashion press to a street corner in France, and then had the models and a Belgian brass band showcase the newest collection after disembarking from an AEC Routemaster bus.[5] Vogue also related that "one show challenged editors and buyers to seat themselves according to their perceived importance, while another saw models wheeled out on trolleys."[1] According to Vogue, for two seasons in 1998 the label made do without live models, in one case instead using marionettes by Jane How.[12]  Maison Martin Margiela was invited to show their first haute couture collection in Paris by The Chamber Syndicale in May 2006.[1] The house then held its 20th anniversary show in September 2008[41] in Paris,[9] featuring a catwalk with a walking birthday cake and "an oom-pah band surrounded by Margiela's lab-coated assistants."[17] Clothing was described as "coats made of synthetic wigs, bodysuits that fused parts of trench coats and tuxedo jackets, and mirrored tights made to look like disco balls."[19] The house designed Kanye West’s tour wardrobe in 2013 for his Yeezus tour.[42] The spring show of 2014 "melded sweet, pioneer styles like floral house dresses with edgier fare like nude bodysuits and oversize Willy Wonka sunglasses."[9] In early 2015 the house premiered its first two collections with Galliano as head designer, initially the brand's "artisanal" collection. The second collection comprised 30 outfits including neon accessors, "Mary-Jane shoes and fake-fur slippers, short skirts, long coats, patent finishes."[23] Galliano upheld house tradition by not taking a post-show bow, although he was in attendance at the shows.[43] The July 2016 show by the house featured items such as military coats, a parachute dress, neon face paint,[44] and 19th-century garments.[45] In September 2016, Maison Margiela partnered with Barneys New York for its fall windows on Madison Avenue, creating four vignettes to reflect the house's recent artisans and ready-to-wear collections.[2] The spring summer 2024 couture presentation has been praised by critics. The collection was inspired by the work of Hungarian-French photographer Brassaï, and focused on an aesthetic of the night-time underbelly of Paris with themes of corsetry, beadwork, and 1930's inspired silhouettes.[46] For the show, Galliano collaborated with makeup artist Pat McGrath to achieve a moonlit porcelain doll effect for the models (which was later released as a cosmetic line by the brand).[47][48] Gwendoline Christie closed the show in a fit and flare white latex dress, one of several mid or plus size models in the presentation.[49] In his review for WWD, Miles Socha says the collection "will surely be remembered in history books, collected by museums, pored over by design students" and emphasizes its "litany of new techniques developed over the last year" re-focusing couture on its research and development origins.[50] Retrospectives and exhibitsThe Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp (MoMu) held a retrospective on the label's work in 2008,[18] moving the exhibit to Somerset House in London two years later.[1] In 2017, MoMu showcased the 12 collections the label had produced while Margiela was appointed by Jean-Louis Dumas to work with Hermès.[51] DocumentariesIn early 2015 filmmaker Alison Chernick released The Artist is Absent, a short biopic on Martin Margiela that launched at the Tribeca Film Festival.[52] In October 2017, director Menna Laura Meijer released We Margiela through the Dutch production company Mint Film Office.[53] The documentary retrospectively explores the early days of the house and features interviews with members of the original Maison Margiela team, including the house’s co-founder Jenny Meirens.[54] In November 2019, director Reiner Holzemer premiered the documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words. Co-produced by Aminata and Holzemer (who had previously worked on a documentary by Dries Van Noten), it was called "the definitive study of this elusive, technically gifted designer" in Hollywood Reporter.[55] He notably explained his withdrawal from the public eye and his desire to remain a designer, rather than "a creative director who directs his assistants". As with most media related to the designer, only Margiela's hands are shown on screen. See alsoReferences
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